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Welcome to Our Pet
Fence - Frequently Asked Questions Page.
Q: Will it work in my yard? A: YES.
Our pet fence works in yards of all sizes, regardless of
layout.
Q: Is my dog too big (or too little)? A:
Our pet fence has been proven safe and effective for all dogs over 5
lbs. The adjustable collar allows you to create a perfect fit for your
pet.
Q: Will it hurt my pet? A: NEVER. The
mild “correction” pulses delivered when a pet approaches the boundary are
designed to get your pet’s attention, but not punish him. This method has
been proven safe and will not harm your pet.
Q: Can my kids get hurt? A: NEVER. The
mild correction pulses are connected to the pet’s collar, not the fence.
So even if your child is holding the pet when it crosses the boundary, he
or she will never feel a thing.
Q: I have a small dog and a large dog. Will
this work for me? A: YES. Our pet fence is effective for all the dogs
in your family. The kit includes one collar; additional collars are
available separately.
Q: Is this complicated? A: From
installation through training, the enclosed easy-to-follow manual walks
you through every step. Plus, if you ever have a question, our customer
service center is here to help. Also a training video is now included with each of our pet fence
systems.
Q: How old does a dog have to be before
starting training? A: This is somewhat breed-dependent but most breeds
should be at least 16 to 20 weeks of age.
Q: During training, an owner observes his
dog sitting in the correction zone. The owner has touched the probes and
has determined the collar is working. The owner can see the dog's skin
flinch so he is sure the dog is receiving the correction. What should the
owner do to prevent this from happening? A: Retrain the dog by putting
him on a long leash. As soon as the dog is observed entering the
correction zone, he should be pulled out and redirected to the "sit" and
"stay" command.
Q: Once a dog is trained to the system,
what is the best way to take the dog out of the boundary? A: Create
what is called an "invisible gate" and take the dog out only through this
gate. This is covered in detail in the owners manual.
Q: Once a dog is trained to the system, how
does the owner implement the "invisible gate" concept? A: Place a long
leash on the dog. Turn the system off. Remove the dog's collar. Redirect
the dog to the "sit" and "stay" command near the area that will become the
"gate". The owner walks out of the yard and asks the dog to
"come".
Q: If a dog is running through the system
at only one spot in the yard, how is this corrected? A: Set him up at
this location. For example, have him on a long leash and then have someone
else walk by that spot or walk his dog by that spot. When the dog attempts
to leave, pull him back with the leash and then redirect him with the
"sit" and "stay" commands. You might also try the following retraining
tips:
If your dog is starting to test his pet fence boundaries or
running through the system, the following retraining options have proven
to be effective:
- Tie-out Training - First, make sure the probes
are making good contact with the skin; without good contact with the skin,
the dog will not feel the shock. Also, make sure the battery is at full
strength. Once a battery loses half its voltage, the receiver will no
longer shock properly. If the receiver is working properly, try the
following training suggestion.
- Try using a tie-out that has
enough rope to allow your dog to get to the shock area but no farther.
Once your dog reaches the shock area, there is no choice but to come back
into the yard. Let him out on the tie out for the next several days. At
some point, a distraction will tempt him to leave the yard and he will get
a shock and have no choice but to return to the yard. This should get your
dog trained to the boundary even when distractions are present.
-
Field Fluctuation - During the training process, make your boundary wider
than your normal setting. Be sure to always pull your dog back as soon as
his collar begins to beep (regardless of how close he is to your "normal"
boundary). This will help your dog understand that the "beep" means turn
around and come back towards the house. NOTE: Do not make the boundary
narrower than your normal setting.
Q: Can an owner use the pet fence to train
other dogs from coming into the owner's yard? A: Only if the other dogs
are wearing a receiver collar.
Q: What is the dummy collar effect? A:
This is a procedure where the collar is eliminated as a factor in
learning. In other words, the dog wears the collar without it being
activated for 3 to 5 days. This way the dog does not learn that the collar
causes the correction, but rather that getting too close to the yard
boundary causes the correction.
Q: How long should an owner take to
create the dummy collar effect? How many days should the dog wear a
deactivated collar before receiving the correction for the first
time? A: On the average, it will take at least 3 days and as long as 7
days.
Q: Should the dog be on or off a leash
the first time the dog receives the correction ? A: On the leash. This
way the owner can easily redirect the dog to the appropriate
behavior.
Q: What is the purpose of having the
dog on a leash the first time he receives the correction? A: In the
event the dog becomes confused, the owner can easily direct him to the
appropriate behavior.
Q: How long should the owner leave the
flags up? A: The flags should remain for at least 2 weeks but in some
cases, as long as 30 days.
Q: What is meant by the "safe
zone"? A: This is the area where the dog can roam freely without
getting a correction.
Q: Does the correction cause pain or
harm to my dog? A: Absolutely not. The correction is safe, painless and
humane.
Q: Is this a humane way to train a
dog? A: Absolutely. While the correction is unpleasant, it is harmless
to your pet. Electronic training devices require interaction and training
from the owner to achieve the desired results. Therefore PetSafe provides
comprehensive training manuals with each training product. These tools
were developed with veterinarians and animal behaviorists to ensure safety
and peace of mind for you and your pet.
Q: Can I use this system to train my dog to
stop jumping over or digging under wood or metal fences? A: Yes. In
fact approximately 40% of those buying a pet fence already own an existing
physical fence.
Q: How do I prevent one dog from chewing on
the collar of another dog? A: If you see one dog chewing on the other
dog's collar, pull him off and redirect him to "sit" and "stay". Also, a
daily spraying of Lysol on the dog's collar will help repel the other
dog.
Installation Questions
Q: How deeply should I bury the
wire? A: We recommend that you bury the wire 1 to 3 inches underground
to give it protection from possible damage caused by small rodents or
surface traffic. It is not vital to the operation of the system that the
wire be buried. You can also bury the wire more deeply (up to 6 to 8
inches) if you are concerned about damage caused by aeration, etc. The
wire can be attached to an existing fence, hedges or other items if it is
not going to get damaged. In wooded areas, you should run the wire through
PVC or rubber garden hose.
Q: What is the best thing to use to dig a
trench for my wire? A: We have found that the quickest way to dig your
trench is with a straight edged spade or shovel or a power lawn edger or
trencher is ideal for larger installations or hard soil
conditions.
Q: How do I cancel the signal in certain
areas of my boundary? A: Our pet fence signal can only be canceled by
twisting wire together. The wires must be part of your continuous loop and
must be traveling in opposite directions. The tighter the twist, the
better your cancellation will be. However, you must be sure not to
over-tighten the wire and cause a break in the wire's outer insulation. We
recommend at least 10 to 12 twists per foot. Example: Start with one
end of the wire attached to your transmitter. Take wire out to the edge of
your boundary, make your loop which encloses your property, then come back
to the transmitter. When you are coming back to the transmitter to close
the loop, twist the wire with the wire that you started with initially.
This will cancel the signal over the wire that connects your transmitter
to the outer edge of your boundary. This same principle can be applied to
enclose pools, ponds, gardens, outbuildings, etc.
Q: Does it matter where I mount the
transmitter? A: Yes. The transmitter should be mounted INDOORS ONLY in
an area where it will be dry at all times. This is because exposure to
moisture can damage the electrical components inside the unit resulting in
poor fence signal and risk of electrical shock or fire.
Q: Why do I need to have rounded corners
along my boundary? A: It is important that the corners on your loop are
rounded with at least a 6' radius. Any sharp turns or angles in your loop
can cause complete signal failure or just intermittent signal conditions
along your entire boundary. This is because the signal that is radiated
off the boundary wire cancels itself out if it crosses with an opposing
signal. Since wires in a sharp corner or angle allow the signals to cross
each other directly, they cancel each other out. A rounded corner will
prevent direct crossing of the signals and your pet fence will function
properly.
Q: How can I install the wire across hard
surfaces like my driveway or sidewalk? A: If you have to cross
concrete, asphalt, brick or other hard surfaces, either lay the wire in a
convenient expansion joint or use a circular saw with a masonry blade to
create a groove. Place the wire in the groove and cover with an
appropriate patching compound. Your local hardware store can help you
choose the right compound for your type of driveway.
Q: What can I use to give the wire
additional protection? A: In areas that may experience particularly
high traffic, or areas prone to small animals digging or chewing, we
recommend that you run the wire through a PVC pipe or rubber garden hose,
then bury it 3 to 4 inches deep. This will not affect the signal, but will
give the wire additional support in areas prone to breakage. NOTE: Do not
use metal piping or garden hose that contains metal strands in the
weave.
Q: Why do I need those little flags? A:
The flags are absolutely vital to the success of your system. They form
the "visual boundary" that your pet will learn to associate with the
warning beep given by his receiver collar. Without a visual boundary, your
pet will only be confused by the warning beeps and training will take much
longer. Once the pet is trained, you may remove the flags. This is
described in the training manual that comes with your kit.
Q: Where do I place the flags in relation
to the buried wire? A: The boundary flags must be placed on the inner
edge of your boundary, at the point where the warning signal on your pet's
collar begins to activate. You never want to place the flags further into
the middle of his "warning zone", because by doing so, you are telling him
that it is OK to be in areas where the warning signal and shock are
present. The boundary flags should be placed a maximum of 10 feet apart
from each other along your entire boundary. Also, it is important to make
sure the boundary is at least 5' from the buried wire.
Q: How do I find a break in the wire? A:
1. Connect both ends of your twisted boundary wire to the first terminal
on your transmitter.
2. Measure and cut a new piece of boundary
wire that is 1/2 the length of your boundary loop.
3. Connect the
new wire to the second terminal on the transmitter.
4. Locate the
half-way point along your boundary loop.
5. Cut your boundary loop
at the half-way point.
6. Connect the free end of your new piece of
wire to either side of your boundary loop at the half way point.
7.
Turn the system on and check the range of this smaller loop with the
receiver collar.
8. If there is no improvement in the performance
of your system, you may assume that there is a break in this portion of
your boundary. Because there is a small chance you have more than one
break in your loop, you should also try the same procedure for the other
side of your loop.
9. Once you determine a section of your boundary
loop has a break in it, find the middle of that section and cut the wire.
Be sure to re-splice the first cut that you made and make it waterproof by
caulking with silicone.
10. Connect the new wire to your boundary
loop at the point at which you made the cut in STEP 9.
11. Turn the
system on and check the range of this smaller loop with the receiver
collar.
12. Repeat STEPS 8 - 11 until you find the damaged section
of wire.
13. Replace damaged wire with new wire. Remember that all
wire in your boundary loop must be the exact same size and
type.
Q: Can I splice the wire? A: Yes.
Splicing is not a problem as long as it is done properly. It is vital that
moisture be kept out of any splices or wire connections. Be sure to always
use the same type and size wire, and also be sure that the splice is
completely waterproof. To ensure a waterproof splice, we recommend the
3M-316 irrigation splice. The appropriate number of PetSafe approved
Waterproof Direct Burial Splices is included FREE with each pet fence
purchase.
Q: Why is it vital that my splices be
waterproof? A: If moisture gets into your wire, it will cause corrosion
resulting in signal failure. Also, be sure to note the location of your
splices for future reference because almost all breaks in the system are
located at splices. We ship each pet fence with the appropriate number of
PetSafe approved Waterproof Direct Burial Splices required for your
installation at no additional cost.
Q: Does my boundary wire have to form a
complete loop for this system to work? A: Yes.
Q: What can I do to protect my boundary
wire and transmitter from damage by an electrical storm? A: Even though
our pet fence systems have built-in lightning protection, we recommend
that you get our Pet Fence Lightning Protection
Module if you live in an area prone
to thunderstorms. This is the only way to have 100% protection from
lightning damage.
Please contact us at help@acornpetco.com
with any questions or for more information. Thank you.
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